The name can be a little misleading. Banish any illusions about courtly chambers graced by blue-blooded noblemen. Let’s turn our attention, instead, to stinking loos, rats scurrying about (I’d include some rasikas in this category), malodorous manifestations of dysfunctional digestive systems (what do you expect with all those paruppu vadas consumed in the canteen ;-), air-conditioners operating in the “Siberia” mode… I could go on and on…but before you log out of the Season, let me assure you that the music is well worth all those assaults on your senses and more (making allowance for the occasional concert in which that term is applicable to the music itself!). Here, then, is the round up:
The Big Four
The Music Academy – The venue for carnatic music, period. There are complaints galore of which, the atrocious ergonomics of balcony seats tops the list but things have improved since Murali of the Hindu took over in 2006. Besides, for the sheer sense of occasion, the Academy simply can’t be beaten. Parking is plentiful in St Ebba’s grounds across the road, the Bose sound system is top drawer, loos are almost sparkling by sabha standards and while the caterer changes on a yearly basis, the food is consistent in its ability to pull rasikas out of concerts for a few minutes (especially during the tani!). Book your tickets well in advance for evening concerts and try not to miss the lec dems in the morning. Nothing like watching those mamas have a go at each other even if you can’t understand a word of the debate!
Narada Gana Sabha – The parking’s almost nonexistent, the loos stink to the high heavens and the audio system is as ancient as the music it plays! If you’re wondering why the Sabha’s is ranks next only to the Academy, recall that old pearl of retailing wisdom – location, location, location! That, and a certain gastronomic phenomenon that goes by the name of Gnanambika. Jayaraman, at the helm of affairs, is a wizard at sevais and vazhappoo vadais – alas, the dining experience would be even more enjoyable if you didn’t have a Q forming behind your chair even before you move on to rasam. I’ve actually heard some mamas shout in frustration when their “target” delays their endless wait by asking for an extra helping of rice! Use the washroom in your hotel before you start out for the Sabha. If you must bring your car, park it along the side streets of Alwarpet or CIT Colony.
Krishna Gana Sabha – Easily the most aesthetically designed sabha and an audio system to match, KGS would give the Academy a good run for its money were it not for its relatively isolated location and usurious prices. The limited menu at the canteen does not help matters and driving down will almost certainly cost you the varnam and the Ganesha sthuthi, unless you show up an hour in advance. Nevertheless, judged strictly on musical parameters, the sabha puts up a good show. The dais seats are a bargain if you can hold the lotus position for 2.5 hours. The venue is also among the most prestigious for dance.
Mylapore Fine Arts Centre – The MFAC brings up the big 4’s rear, faring dismally on almost all counts – no parking, get-me-outta-here loos, an Ahuja speaker system handed down from the Quit India movement…oh, and if you’re wondering why everyone’s walking around like they have something stuffed up their backsides, try sitting on those chairs for a minute or two. What props up this relic of a Sabha is the patronage of perhaps the most musically erudite audience in the world (yes, it beats the Academy hands down – not too many Kanjeevarams and kadukkans flashed around here) and the delectable offerings at the canteen. Concerts start at 6 and usually spill over beyond the official closing time of 9 - a welcome change from 2-2.5 hour norm at most other venues. Try not to miss TN Seshagopalan’s magnum opus and the New year feast.
Other Sabhas in the Mylapore Area
Brahma Gana Sabha – My favorite after the big 4. The auditorium at Sivagami Pettachi is cozy, the seats are comfortable, the loos acceptable and the acoustics, spot on. You just might be able to squeeze in your car into the parking lot if you show up 10 minutes ahead. The food is nothing to write home about but you could always drop into MFAC or NGS next door.
Bharatiya Vidya Bhavan – Another fine second tier venue, charmingly located amidst the bustle of the Kapali temple. Except for the loo and limitations of parking, there isn‘t much to complain about. There’s no canteen either but you have enough options around the temple including Saravana Bhavan and the delightful Karpagambal Mess. Early season concerts have a great ambience with packed halls and artistes eager to put their best foot forward.
Raga Sudha Hall, started by the late Shri SV Krishnan, is set in a shaded lane abutting the Nageshwara Rao park. This no-nonsense sabha is known for its knowledgeable audiences, emphasis on high musical values and excellent audio arrangements. No parking but there’s ample space outside, a solitary urinal and plastic chairs. No catering
The Shastri Hall, located next to the Mylapore Club, hosts a number of sabhas during the course of the season and boasts of a hoary tradition. As above, expect highly cultured audiences and no frills. A public latrine abutting the compound wall is the only option for answering calls of nature. There’s no parking and trying to find one in the busy Luz area can be dis”concerting” in more ways than one!
The PS High School’s auditorium, opposite the Ramakrishna Mission is shared by a few sabhas at various stages of the season. Ample parking is a plus point and the audio system is passable but the wooden benches can cause serious damage to the posterior. No Catering.
Swamy’s Hall is a recent addition to the season and perhaps the only major sabha in Mandaveli. A nice compact auditorium with a sensitive audio system. Carnatica run their season event here which means you can expect highbrow selections including veterans like Parasala Ponammal, RK Srikanthan and Tanjore Sankara Iyer. Plastic chairs, no catering and no parking inside the sabha premises.
Parthsarathi Swami Sabha – The sabha claims to be the oldest in Chennai with a history that purportedly goes back over a 100 years. That, however, does not excuse the shabby arrangements at Vidya Bharathi, near “Yellow Pages”, off Royapettah High Road. While their festival is not exactly a feast for the ears, certain other senses are better catered to – the legendary Arusuvai Natarajan usually runs the canteen and that is reason enough to fit in a cutcheri or two at this venue!
Jaya TV @ Chettinad Vidyasharam (MRC Nagar) – It’s too late for this post to make any difference now – Jaya TV’s annual margazhi festival is into its last couple of days. Just as well, since “free entry” and the television angle lends this series a distinctly kitschy air. The thematic content and an inane Q&A session only make matters worse. Besides you can always catch this on Jaya TV (and on YouTube!) from the 15th onwards.
Sabhas in T Nagar and Around
Vani Mahal – Located at a busy intersection on the GN Chetty Road, the sabha had a makeover a few years ago. While that has resulted in the replacement of crumbling straw chairs with upholstered comfort, improvements to the audio system have been limited to concealing it with wooden paneling! Worse still, the soundman is suspected to suffer from hearing problems which means that things can get a little noisy when TM Krishna unleashes his lightning neravals! The loos are tolerable and a few cars can be accommodated – but considering its location, you are well advised to hail an auto.
Kalarasana – Perched on top the Raja Muthiah complex overlooking the Gemini flyover, Ranee Seethai Hall is located bang in the centre of Chennai. Seats are cramped and the loo is strictly for emergencies but parking is ample and the speakers do a decent job. Best of all, there is a certain electricity in the atmosphere – attendance is usually close to 100% and concerts invariably end with a standing ovation. I’ve heard some of Sanjay’s best concerts at this venue.
Indian Fine Arts – Mr. Srinivasan, who runs the sabha, is one of the characters of the Chennai’s music circle. Egged on by mischievous musicians eager for his patronage, this gent habitually regales the audience with a musical gem or two in the middle of his post concert speech. His magical voice will stand in splendid isolation until genetic engineers figure out how to impregnate crows with donkey-seed. The sabha secretary’s shambolic ritual is reflected in the sabha’s operations. The IFAS’ proximity (located off Habibullah Road, T Nagar) to my residence was the only reason for my venturing into its premises over the last few years. Since that is no longer the case, I propose to give it a wide berth this time.
Bharat Kalachar – Count on YGP Mami to come up with succinct summaries of concerts in her inimitable manner. When you see a musician abruptly abandoning fancy flights of manodharma, you know that Mami’s auto is about to rattle in! The open air ambience works very well for 4 PM concerts with the main piece often benefiting from the magical colors of twilight. Pity, though, about the plastic chairs, constrained views of the stage and urinals designed for 10 year olds! Having said that, the overall experience remains an extremely pleasant one. Do get your car along – parking is available in plenty at the Padma Seshadri’s T Nagar premises
Nungambakkam Cultural Academy – Conduct their festival at the Karnataka school auditorium in Habibullah Road. A bit of an also-ran among the T Nagar Sabhas - gets very little attention from the media. Concerts start at 7.15, tend to be short and often lackadaisical. Don’t forget your shawl - for the sleepy folks at the sabha will definitely forget to turn down the AC. Seats are OK although the speakers can act up. There’s some parking and a functional canteen. Stay away from the loo.
Mudra – An young sabha that looked to be on the right track until it moved its venue to the Ramakrishna Mission School’s “Infosys Hall” which, despite the fancy name, is nothing but a humdrum assembly hall fitted out with plastic chairs and makeshift boom boxes. It is a massive hall and the stage is vertically challenged which means that the sabha experience is strictly aural from the 5th row onwards. The canteen gamely carries on, well after the last concert is over so you don’t have to head back to your room with nothing, except Bhairavi, in your stomach!
Kamaraj Arangam - This sprawling auditorium on Mount Road has started hosting the "Chennaiyil Thiruvaiyyaru" series which is also aired in one of the TV channels. Dark and dingy, its musty smell in only a slight improvement over the reeking washrooms. Mount Mani Iyer held fort at the canteen last year but the except for the odd driver, no one seemed to take any interest in it.
Let me conclude with a couple of useful links.
Ramkumar (Ram) has put together painstakingly compiled season schedule which can be accessed at: http://ramsabode.wordpress.com/concerts-in-chennai/ Nalli now has serious competition! Ram is also an upcoming mrudangist and is learning from Sangitha Kalanidhi Sri Umayalapuram Sivaraman. His season schedule can also be found on his blog.
R Bharathwaj has put together a very useful map of sabhas in Chennai which you can find here:
http://maps.google.com.au/maps/ms?ie=UTF8&hl=en&msa=0&msid=110523945678119131655.00043dc23fe1a497231cf&ll=13.039241,80.260105&spn=0.011351,0.017338&z=16&iwloc=00043dc278b834e4ee34b
Other resources
www.kuctheribuzz.com for season schedules, vambu and more
www.carnatica.net – Run by Sowmya and Shashikiran – also has a schedule
www.chennaionline.com - Fairly good coverage of the season including a schedule
E-paper editions of the Times and the New Indian Express put out daily schedules as does the Hindu - but you need to pay for a subscription
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